The Lost Couturier James Galanos
American fashion had yet to surpass the worldwide popularity of Parisian style until the early ‘90s. Because of this, many talented American fashion designers from that time have faded away from the limelight and into the pages of history. This has happened to American Couturier, James Galanos. Intending to bring this brilliant designer back into focus just a little more, I drove along the coast of California to an exhibit whose mission was just that — re-introducing the public to James Galanos.
Courtesy of Sydney Yeager
After climbing two small flights of stairs, I found myself on the top floor of an open building in Santa Barbara gazing at the Couture Pattern Museum's careful curation of original James Galanos’s garments and or thoughtful recreations of his stunning designs. Throughout the room, people inspected his creations for America’s elite at the time. During his tenure, Galanos would dress Nancy Reagan and movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and Grace Kelly.
The exhibit focused heavily on his work and creative detailing with the museum's curator Cara even wearing a dress based on one of his patterns.
Galanos grew up very shy and would later even recall that he was, "a loner, surrounded by three sisters. I never sewed; I just sketched. It was simply instinctive. As a young boy, I had no fashion influences around me but all the while I was dreaming of Paris and New York.” By 1952 his creativity as a young child paid off and he would open his own company Galanos Originals. The company’s designs were ordered almost immediately by Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills. Later that same year, he would open a New York showroom, marking the official ascent of his fashion career.
Galanos’s particularness about fabrics and trimmings would earn him the nickname “Dior of America.” And indeed many of his looks gave way to a certain level of Dior’s elegance. From color-blocking with black and white to cinched-in waists, Galanos took a page from the French playbook and re-wrote it in an American way by adding more details, and volume and even shortening the average hemline slightly.
He also brought accessibility to his designs. Instead of going the route of most designers at the time (or even today) and creating a beauty line, he partnered with McCall’s Patterns to create sewing patterns that anyone could sew at home. The patterns also would prove helpful in setting up this exhibit as the Couture Pattern Museum was able to analyze both his works and create any needed recreations based on the patterns from McCall’s.
Courtesy of Sydney Yeager
Galanos would also stand apart from American designers who often purchased fabric created in the Garment District of New York City. Instead, he trusted his judgment and would select fabrics and trimmings during trips to Europe and Asia. If he didn’t find a fabric that suited his needs, he would create his own. To him, the details were important and he understood that these details set him apart more than anything else. For instance, he used silks that some designers might have used for the dress and created a lining underneath the gown. He would also cross black satin ribbons over black lace evening dresses to create a delicate and detailed appearance.
These details are why his dresses have stood the test of time even if his name has faded more from our memory. As an example, Nancy Reagan’s dress she wore to the first state dinner at the White House was not just a Galanos creation–but one made sixteen years prior. This is a testament to not only the quality but the timeless design of his creations. To the end of his life, his designs would remain timeless, elegant, and easily accessible to everyone. Galanos would win the highest fashion industry awards such as the Neiman Marcus Award and the Coty Award. Yet, even after all of this, he faded from the public eye as his style became viewed as ‘old-fashioned.’ Check out the Couture Pattern Muesum’s Instagram for more.
