Screenwriters and producers make a film. Directors, actors and the plot make a difference. Costumes may be thought of as a "side" of the film-plate, but thankfully, during the past few decades, our perceptions have changed. A movie's core is its clothes, they provide context and allow viewers to participate in the world the actors aim to recreate. Here, we share some recent narratives featuring costumes that we think are absolutely exceptional.

This 2022 release shows Florence Pugh and Harry Styles living in the idealistic 1950s town of Victory. Don’t Worry Darling, released only last month, boasts a vast wardrobe full of colorful 1950s dresses and sharp suits, designed by Arianne Phillips. The costumes for this brand-new thriller were not just designed with historical accuracy in mind. Nay nay. Each character’s costumes tell you a little bit more about them and hints further at the sinister themes that underpin the whole movie. Speaking to Entertainment Weekly, Arianne Phillips says that she had to put her “male-gaze hat on for this”. The men were idealizing the women and also themselves via the sharp tailoring and smart leisurewear. The societal expectations and gender stereotypes are constantly reinforced through Styles and Pugh’s characters, Jack and Alice.

Last Night in Soho follows a fashion design student newly enrolled at London College of Fashion. Her love of the 1960s quickly becomes a little too close to comfort as she’s transported back in time to a Soho club in the 1960s. The costumes showcased in this horror/thriller are truly spectacular and all designed by Odile Dicks-Mireaux. The most stand out costume of all is without a doubt the peach dress worn by Sandie, played by Anya Taylor-Joy. This dress became a constant motif for the flashbacks to the 1960s throughout the film. In Entertainment Weekly Dicks-Mireaux mentions how this dress was the most challenging dress to make due to it’s hugely symbolic nature.

Based on Scandinavian folklore, costume designer Andrea Flesch had her work cut out designing costumes reflective of a pagan cult. The story of Midsommar follows Dani, a girl who goes on what should be a relaxing trip to Sweden with her boyfriend, following a family tragedy. However, all is not what it seems as she finds herself in the midst of a pagan cult. Interestingly, the film relies on colour coding as all the characters start off in white. Keeping Scandinavian features whilst also making it original, the white dresses are kept unique to each character and include lots of embroidery. Fun fact: Flesch used 100 year old linen to make all of the fabrics!!

Whilst many live action films based on animations rely heavily on their impressive use of CGI, it was in fact the costumes, designed by Jenny Beavan, that really stole the show. For this particular villain origin story, costumes were of upmost importance, and so it’s no surprise that Beavan won an Oscar for all her hard work! As you’d expect from a villain in 1970s London during the time of punk-rock, Cruella’s costumes feature black and red, sequined trousers, military jackets, and extravagant ball gowns. What’s even better is that Beavan was actually there in London back in the 1970s! Talk about first hand experience! Unsurprisingly, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood served as huge inspirations for costumes fit for a villain. It is noted that Cruella has a grand total of 47 looks in the film! Beavan must have been a very busy bee!

Thrill in the name, Thrill in the costume

To each outfit repeater her own piece, by haus label

An Ode to the CFDA