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Heavenly Host by Ontavia Roulette: Modern Holy Women on the Runway

According to the CFDA calendar, New York Fashion Week started on September 4th, showcasing the wonders and sparkles of Spring and Summer 2023. However, for some fashionistas, the industry doesn’t sleep at all and their work deserves a stage any day and anywhere. Last week Cleveland designer and creative Ontavia Roulette debuted on the fashion scene with her first show in Brooklyn, NY.
This show titled “Heavenly Host” showcased a selected array of fine pieces by Ontavia, a Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) recipient of the Impact Program. The event was a modern representation of what it means to be in a safe space that accepts every façade of a woman: a blessed space, between the holy and the unholy. Living in times where femininity and women’s rights are at risk for simply existing, themes like this one raised by Ontavia are more than relevant and necessary.

What’s your background in fashion? Why does fashion speak to you as a form of artistic expression?

I am mainly a self taught, including as a seamstress. I receive majority of my fashion education while working as a librarian in Baltimore, MD at Enoch Pratt Free library they have four floors underground filled with books to educate myself on art, art history, textile, fashion, and fashion education. Their collection is extensive. In regards to my traditional fashion education, I studied textiles science and engineering in Baltimore under professor Dr.Victoria Jackson.

Fashion is the ultimate example of artistic expression because we live our lives in clothing, so why not present yourself in the best way? When you meet people for the first time, that impression is everything: why not present yourself in those first five seconds with your clothing? I love the way clothes move. I especially love the way clothing feels, and not just emotionally, but to the touch. I chose fashion to activate all of your senses.

Fashion is also a very large stage in that I can nonverbally express my thoughts, and emotions as it pertains to my life and the state of the world we live in. I keep my political and religious views private but at this stage I’m able to express them in a vague way to create conversations amongst the masses.

Tell us a bit more about this latest showcase you just had in Brooklyn. What were your expectations and were they satisfied?

To be honest I go into the shows with zero expectations, because usually when I make plans they tend to not fall through. In fashion there’s a ton of last-minute changes so you have to go in with 100% blind trust, and extremely flexible. Showing in Brooklyn was a first, I usually scout a location in Manhattan like the previous three shows. Also, quite risky as it pertains to attendance. Not to mention showing the day before the New York Fashion week officially begins was me marching to the beat of my own. Being independent and not willing to sacrifice the message I’m trying to deliver, and not willing to sacrifice my art comes at a steep price.

What’s your creative process in making clothes?

I design for a wide range of women, but mostly for the woman that projects intimidation. In many instances before I start I need to know exactly who is the model. I also design with the venue in mind, a specific color-aura I want to manifest with. For instance this show was green, for growth, abundance and envy. I showed on September 3rd which was the exact time the moon was half light/ half dark to celebrate the middle ground of life, dark and light, duality, and coming out of the darkness. When I say coming out of the darkness I’m referencing how we would celebrate once “war” is over. The war I’m referencing to is Covid-19. We didn’t have the opportunity to really say that this pandemic was over and so we are coming out on the other end of this not knowing where to go next. The only place to go next is forward and that is what I had in mind while creating this collection.

Why did you choose the theme of “heaven”, metaphysics, and “femininity”? How important is it for you to have women as the protagonist of your runaway?
Heaven, metaphysics, and femininity are the basis of all my collections. Though it may not seem like it God is at the center of all the things that I do. It’s not very important to me to have woman be a protagonist I rather her be an antagonist . The dark and light/ good and bad of “Woman” is the idea of the lady and the whore. Women are always categorized, but what about the woman that has self-respect, self defined, has inner and outer beauty, but also owns her sexuality and her freedom drinks, smokes and curses like a sailor. That is the woman that I was displaying in this collection. These type of women have been considered dangerous, frowned at, or criminalized and to be honest I don’t want the woman to always be the protagonist I’m ok with the woman being a villain. Even growing up I had the sweetest admiration for the bad girls, the witches, the groupies, the video vixens, the porn stars, or the ones that push the envelope to rage against the machine. Because we all have her inside of us, or have been her some time in our lives. I believe that any woman that has demanded respect in any room has been called a bitch or said to be difficult to work with. That’s her. That is why I am designing for her in this collection. it is important because she exists.

How do you see yourself paving the way for success in this industry, especially if you consider your position as a Black woman in the United States?

I believe I’m paving the way for success in this industry because I’m not making it solely about me, fame, fashion, and validation. I’m making this fashion house about the artists and individuals that contribute to it. We can bring an experience to the masses. I am surrounded by extremely creative and dedicated individuals that are experts in their field, skill, and craft and to be able to bring people together and create a moment is very important to me . because not only am I chasing my dream, but I am providing a platform for sixty other people to chase their streams at the same time. It is creating a safe space and community for people who still believe in the beauty, art, illusion and storytelling of fashion.

Where do you want to be in five years with your name, brand, and team?

In five years I hope that my name serves as an example to millions of other designers that want to do what I do. I also pray that the brand is financially successful because as an independent artist every dime comes out of my pocket every show is funded by me and any ticket sales that we may have goes directly to any artist that have contributed their skills to the show. I pray that my team has been able to branch off and be extremely successful in their careers and opportunities that they want for themselves, but are still willing to come back and be a part of this beautiful fashion house I also pray that the team acquires seamstresses because at this point I’m the only one sewing every year.