A lesson of ethical fashion from Cecilia Rinaldi
The world's industrial systems are moving in the direction of long-term sustainability. Fashion, for example, has followed the same path. It's difficult to say where we stand, and it's even more difficult to accelerate. But it is possible, and we can help. Cecilia Rinaldi, who describes herself as an activist first, explained how it works.
«We must reclaim a humanity that has been lost» is a statement she made in one of the pieces she wrote. Cecilia Rinaldi, a university professor and the creator of her own completely autonomous brand, knows how to change.
We interviewed Cecilia to find out where her concern for the environment came from and if Slow Fashion has a fair possibility of becoming the new trend in the near future.
Cecilia Rinaldi is a self-contained brand founded on ethical principles and long-term values. What led to its establishment in 2014?
My schooling and training undoubtedly influenced my current views and values in the areas of sustainability and ethics. I'm from the province of Modena (Italy), and my family has always worked in the environmental sector. I've been hearing about these issues since I was a child, and humans have always been a part of my development. There is also a proclivity for workmanship in my family DNA, which I learned about while growing up. In addition, I've always traveled a lot, both for pleasure and for work, and this has allowed me to learn about many cultures and traditions.
This is how, in 2012, I discovered Northern Europe's environmental and social sensitivity, which was a step ahead of the rest of Europe. A noteworthy excursion was to New Orleans, where I learned about the tragic events surrounding Hurricane Katrina, one of the first serious impacts of climate change while speaking with locals. After 2005, I started paying greater attention to climate change, and I observed that many others were doing the same. Big names, and especially the masses, began to become involved, although activism was not widely discussed until 2013.
Through University and my first jobs, I became more acquainted with the fashion industry, learning about the rigorous rhythms, stress, and cyclical dynamics of both small and major well-established firms. To balance out my overall education, I spent time in Berlin, where I learned about ethical and ecological fashion. On the other hand, I was lucky enough to learn from huge boutiques in the USA in 2013 for the more administrative and accounting aspects. After my time in America, I returned and, with my expertise now full, I started my own business.
How do you sustain an ethical fashion system?
Cecilia Rinaldi's works examine sustainable instruments from conception to distribution. It is a completely circular economy. Consider the fact that we employ natural fabrics, which is a challenging task given that the goal is to use exclusively Italian fibers and fabrics, as there are no silk fields in Italy. We lessen both environmental and social effects by operating in this manner, eliminating worker exploitation. Hemp, bamboo, and small-scale silks are the materials I work with, as reported on the website and in the specifications of each outfit. Every substance I seek is both natural and certified in terms of cultivation and transportation. I believe the word to use is transparency.
Our manufacture is entirely Italian, spanning Emilia and Tuscany. We typically produce 5-10 pieces per size each store, allowing us easy control of production. Each company that creates us is self-contained; I work with partners rather than employees. We sell by order, e-commerce, or online. We are currently introducing materials in the hopes that it will settle in the future, and the EU is enacting legislation to minimize waste and trash. Reclaimed cloth is one solution to material waste. Scraps from previous collections or sample collections are also used. We've noticed that when the client gets closer to the collection, questions regarding how we work and what we utilize increase. Customer tailoring is a potent weapon, and it is accomplished through the reuse of scrap. This awareness and attention, in my opinion, began in Italy after the pandemic.
I perceive fashion as a two-sided coin, one concerned with the subject's ethical implications and the other with marketing, turnover, and sales. Is it acceptable for them to coexist, or should everyone strive for more environmentally friendly fashion?
The future I envision right now is developing along two paths: one that pays more attention to ethics, and that is Slow Fashion; one that instead focuses more on marketing and communication and that is Fast Fashion. However, the future may be heading in the latter direction. This system was built by ruthless consumption, and the present crisis will only exacerbate poverty. As unsustainable as it is, I believe it is a behemoth that will be too difficult to defeat and eradicate. Fast fashion is a new business model that is difficult to combat since it fully exploits labor, reduces textile and labor costs, and can reinvest in communication by influencing and bombarding consumers with incentives to consume and buy.
Our goal as independent companies is to slow down the present trend or at the very least strive to create an information network that will bring young people closer to this new, more responsible, and ethical consumption model. Reduced prices, and used and vintage purchases are all acceptable options.
I believe that eco fashion can become ingrained in the behaviors of a more mature age. How do you get it into the hands of young people who, given the choice between a shirt that costs 5 euros and one made of organic fibers that costs 35 euros, would select the former?
I certainly do not have any solutions, but I believe that a network of independent brands working in the field of sustainable fashion might help to counteract the situation. Then, as occurred to me, you need long-term training and education, which means talking to teenagers, modifying or introducing new programs in schools and universities, and developing educational projects. My lectures' major goal is to provide a 360° understanding of what drives big brands, how production cycles work, and how they may be modified to align with these principles. «How can we buy sustainable fashion at such exorbitant rates as penniless people?», I've been asked several times during my classes. Let's do the math: almost 80% of young people shop at fast fashion outlets four times per month (considering weekends). They spend around 150 euros per month on average. You may buy Cecilia Rinaldi and the system's ethicality with the same amount. Vintage and secondhand items, on the other hand, are always fantastic choices that, as I see it, are becoming more popular. Even getting your clothes adjusted or repairing old clothes can be beneficial, and I've noticed that this awareness returns from time to time. Savoir-faire should be reintroduced as a viable alternative to quick fashion.
I believe you have created a positive or bad opinion as a result of your encounter. Who, more significantly, owns the key to the future?
First and foremost, I consider myself an activist. I've been working in the sector of fashion and sustainability since 2015, and during the last seven years, I've seen significant developments, both among big brands and independent brands, all over the world. Although the rate of change has quickened, climate change must be considered.
Institutions must now, more than ever, step up and take action to reverse the trend. There is reason to be optimistic; France and Italy are set to sign waste-related legislation in 2022. There is so much to be done, and I am encouraged by the increased activism.
Even now, though, we must be cautious because green washing is constantly present and can throw everything into question. Institutions are paying attention to this issue, as well as climate change. However, more action is required. And it may have been completed sooner. Because pre-covid was outmoded, the entire fashion business needed to be renewed. Young people's perspectives must shift, and in order for this to happen, academic programs must be revised to include more projects connected to sustainability and circularity. Kids are aware of facts, since digital and technological advancements are helpful, but they also have drawbacks. Fast fashion is the offspring of communication, which is no coincidence.
Difficult to express, but necessary. For you, what does sustainability entail?
It has numerous facets. It must interfere from the farm to the factory to the transportation. It entails being critical throughout the entire process. As resources dwindle and hostilities escalate, poverty and quick fashion become more prevalent. Alternatives, solutions, and reversing the manufacturing cycle must all be part of the sustainability equation. As we do, take action in your own small manner.
